HANGING  A  BOARD & THROW  AREA  SETUP

                       
                           
   

   
   

   
                           
    Do it right the first time. Coming close when shooting may be acceptable to some but coming close when hanging a board is not acceptable to any player. Your board must be hung properly with the oche or throw line at proper distance and have proper lighting. Meaning No Shadows - when a darts is in the board there must be sufficient lighting not to have any shadow.

Your board will come with a bracket to be affixed to your back board - a set-screw to go in the center of the board on back and three bumpers compensating for the set-screw. Not mandatory but definitely recommended - skip all that hassle and get a board clamp. Far - far easier to turn the board or to change out a board. Don't wait till later to get a clamp. It sets the board a bit further away from the backboard and you will then have to re-adjust the distance of your oche. These are sometimes available locally or you can order a Unicorn clamp from AtoZ Darts.com
   
    Photos are from the Silver Dollar Bar. Their original throw area was a bit cramped due to the size of the bar. But when the bar expanded now with double the space - Ned done did it right setting up what many now considered to be the best throw in town.

The oche (above photo) is 3/8'' plywood and is 42'' wide. A raised oche is always preferred but not possible in some venues.

The diagram left has the measurements for hanging your board. Again - get these right. You cannot enter a team into a league if your measurements are not correct.
   
    Getting the lighting right is an on-going nightmare for many venues. Ned's backboard and light hood is spot on and with only one florescent bulb in the hood. This has to be the cheapest set-up to make as well as being the most efficient.

The trick of why this works is the depth of the hood. Many put up a hood far too shallow that then causes shadows. Ned's design has a hood 13 1/2'' deep. The inside is painted white and the florescent bulb fixture is mounted to the far front of the hood - dispersing the light over the board with no shadows on darts in the board.

The inside of the hood has room for mirrors to further intensify the light if needed of even additional spot lights. The front of the hood is a great place for your bar's name and outside hood and backboard can be painted any color to best suit your bar. The Silver Dollar Bar's unit is painted flat black offsetting the orange walls. Guess they were going for a Halloween Theme.
   
                           
   

For printable versions of either of the diagrams click on the thumbnail.

Get it right the first time and both you and your players will be happy . . . .

   
     

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